(March 2025)
When we started planning our spring trip to South Korea, I was excited to return to a country that has meant so much to us over the years — and this time, to experience it not just as a traveler, but as a retiree with new freedom to explore.
We booked flights on Air Premia, a high-quality discount airline flying direct from Newark International Airport (EWR) to Incheon (ICN). The price? About half what we would have paid on Korean Air out of Dulles — and the service was excellent. Price varies depending on the time of the year, but we snagged round trip tickets for about $1,000 each. Spacious seats, great crew — highly recommended.
Getting to Newark was easy: we rented a car from Enterprise in Edgewood, Maryland, drove to Newark, and dropped it off at the airport. On the way home, we reversed the process, though our Sunday return meant dropping the car at BWI, since the Edgewood location was closed.
Seoul: Family, Food, and Spring Surprises
We started the trip in Seoul, staying with Jennifer’s family in the Sang-gye neighborhood.
Korea holds a special place in my heart — I spent five years here as a U.S. Army soldier, stationed at Yongsan Garrison in Seoul. It was during that time, in November 2000, that I met Jennifer — and Korea has been part of our story ever since.
One of the most joyful parts of this visit was quality time with Jennifer’s parents, now in their 80s, and reconnecting with her sister and extended family.
We explored the city’s markets, trails, and temples — and even had a late-season snowfall, which caught us by surprise! Next time, we’ll pack warmer for early spring.
Urban Hiking and Hidden Temples
Seoul is a city of mountains, and we tackled one of the popular urban hikes near Sang-gye. The trail included sections with cables bolted into the rock, adding a bit of adventure — and the views from the top were worth every step. It’s always inspiring to see how many older Koreans tackle these trails with energy and skill.
Another highlight was a visit to a beautiful temple near Nowon Station. The temple graciously sent a shuttle van to pick us up, and after touring the colorful dancheong painted eaves and serene grounds, we enjoyed a simple temple meal. Sharing this day with Jennifer’s younger sister made it even more special.
Markets, Food, and Family Moments
No trip to Seoul is complete without wandering through its legendary markets. We spent hours in Namdaemun Market and Dongdaemun Market, soaking up the color and energy.
One meal stood out: an incredible grilled chicken ssam dinner near Sang-gye Station. The marinated chicken was grilled right at our table, along with garlic, peppers, and vegetables. We wrapped each bite in lettuce leaves with rice and a dab of gochujang — Korean comfort food at its finest.
A Personal Visit to Camp Humphreys
One of the more meaningful moments of this trip was our visit to Camp Humphreys in Pyeongtaek.
Most U.S. Army operations have now shifted south to Camp Humphreys, which has become the largest U.S. military base overseas. Visiting Humphreys for the first time as a retiree was a moving experience — seeing how the U.S.–ROK alliance continues to evolve, and remembering how much Korea has shaped our lives.
Island Adventures: Heuksando
Midway through the trip, we headed south for an island adventure.
We took the train to Mokpo, then boarded a ferry to Heuksando Island in the South China Sea. The ferry ride itself was beautiful — passing rugged coastline and fishing villages.
On Heuksando, we explored dramatic cliffs, coastal trails, and charming island streets. The seafood was as fresh as it gets, and the island’s remote feel made it a highlight of the trip.
Family Road Trip: Pocheon Sanjeong Lake
To round out the trip, we joined Jennifer’s parents, sister, and brother-in-law for a family road trip north to Pocheon Sanjeong Lake.
Nestled among forested hills, the lake offered peaceful scenery and crisp spring air — a perfect place to relax and reflect after our busy island travels.
Reflections
Every trip to Korea brings new memories — and this one felt especially meaningful.
Returning as a retiree, with the freedom to explore both old haunts and new places, gave us a fresh perspective on this country that’s been so central to our story.
We can’t wait to return again — and we’ll definitely fly Air Premia next time, too!
Closing
If you’re considering a spring trip to Korea, don’t hesitate — it’s a season of vibrant markets, crisp mountain air, blooming temples, and family warmth.
And if you’re a military retiree or former expat, going back to Korea can be a truly special journey — part homecoming, part adventure, always memorable.
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