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Travel

How We Fell in Love with Scuba

April 2025

After a wonderful visit to Korea this spring, we added an exciting second chapter to our journey: a five-day trip to Bohol, Philippines, arranged through Hanatour. The goal? To explore the island and see if it might be the right place for us to pursue scuba diving certification later in 2025.

We booked a tour package that included round-trip flights on Air Seoul, airport transfers, hotel accommodations at the Henann Tawala Resort, and a full slate of tours and activities. The value was excellent — about $600 per person, thanks in part to the strong dollar.

Our Air Seoul flight from Incheon to Panglao (TAG) was smooth and comfortable. Upon arrival, a Hanatour representative met us and drove us to Alona Beach Tawala Resort, where we settled in for our stay.

Though our resort didn’t have a fitness center, we quickly found a well-equipped gym at a neighboring resort and made time to work out each day — an important part of travel life for us!

The week was packed with adventure, and Hanatour had arranged an impressive lineup of experiences that gave us a full taste of Bohol. Early in the trip, we suited up for our very first scuba experience — an introductory dive with a local instructor. We spent an hour underwater, floating beside coral and fish, and it was enough to convince us: we were hooked. This was the moment we decided to return later in the year to earn our full PADI certification.

Another morning, we set out on a boat to watch dolphins glide through the water at sunrise, followed by snorkeling with sea turtles in the clear, shallow reefs. Later that day, we joined an island-hopping excursion that brought us to Balicasag Island, one of Bohol’s most beloved snorkeling spots. The beach there was made entirely of tiny shells and coral fragments — unlike anything we’d ever seen. Walking barefoot across the shore was a tactile joy, and the surrounding ocean views were unforgettable.

On land, we explored the iconic Chocolate Hills, cruised gently down a jungle river while enjoying a delicious lunch, and visited the Tarsier Sanctuary to meet Bohol’s most famous residents — tiny, wide-eyed primates no bigger than your hand.

Because we were part of a Korean-language group tour, I leaned heavily on Jennifer for translation, but the Hanatour team made sure we felt included and cared for. Meals were served at a variety of local Korean restaurants, and every meal was hearty, familiar, and satisfying.

Throughout our stay, we enjoyed spectacular beach views, friendly and welcoming local people, and a wonderfully relaxed pace of life. Before heading back to the airport, we treated ourselves to a professional full-body massage — the perfect way to cap off a fantastic trip.

Our return flight to Korea on Air Seoul was just as seamless. We left Bohol feeling inspired and energized — and with a clear decision: we would return in November 2025 to pursue our PADI Open Water certification. Next time, we plan to book our trip directly rather than through Hanatour, though we were very satisfied with their service for this first experience.

Bohol captured our hearts. This was not just a beach vacation — it was the start of a new passion for scuba diving and a discovery of a place we know we’ll return to again and again.

Categories
Travel

Spring in Korea: Family, Food, and Island Adventures

(March 2025)

When we started planning our spring trip to South Korea, I was excited to return to a country that has meant so much to us over the years — and this time, to experience it not just as a traveler, but as a retiree with new freedom to explore.

We booked flights on Air Premia, a high-quality discount airline flying direct from Newark International Airport (EWR) to Incheon (ICN). The price? About half what we would have paid on Korean Air out of Dulles — and the service was excellent. Price varies depending on the time of the year, but we snagged round trip tickets for about $1,000 each. Spacious seats, great crew — highly recommended.

Getting to Newark was easy: we rented a car from Enterprise in Edgewood, Maryland, drove to Newark, and dropped it off at the airport. On the way home, we reversed the process, though our Sunday return meant dropping the car at BWI, since the Edgewood location was closed.

Seoul: Family, Food, and Spring Surprises

We started the trip in Seoul, staying with Jennifer’s family in the Sang-gye neighborhood.

Korea holds a special place in my heart — I spent five years here as a U.S. Army soldier, stationed at Yongsan Garrison in Seoul. It was during that time, in November 2000, that I met Jennifer — and Korea has been part of our story ever since.

One of the most joyful parts of this visit was quality time with Jennifer’s parents, now in their 80s, and reconnecting with her sister and extended family.

We explored the city’s markets, trails, and temples — and even had a late-season snowfall, which caught us by surprise! Next time, we’ll pack warmer for early spring.

Urban Hiking and Hidden Temples

Seoul is a city of mountains, and we tackled one of the popular urban hikes near Sang-gye. The trail included sections with cables bolted into the rock, adding a bit of adventure — and the views from the top were worth every step. It’s always inspiring to see how many older Koreans tackle these trails with energy and skill.

Another highlight was a visit to a beautiful temple near Nowon Station. The temple graciously sent a shuttle van to pick us up, and after touring the colorful dancheong painted eaves and serene grounds, we enjoyed a simple temple meal. Sharing this day with Jennifer’s younger sister made it even more special.

Markets, Food, and Family Moments

No trip to Seoul is complete without wandering through its legendary markets. We spent hours in Namdaemun Market and Dongdaemun Market, soaking up the color and energy.

One meal stood out: an incredible grilled chicken ssam dinner near Sang-gye Station. The marinated chicken was grilled right at our table, along with garlic, peppers, and vegetables. We wrapped each bite in lettuce leaves with rice and a dab of gochujang — Korean comfort food at its finest.

A Personal Visit to Camp Humphreys

One of the more meaningful moments of this trip was our visit to Camp Humphreys in Pyeongtaek.

Most U.S. Army operations have now shifted south to Camp Humphreys, which has become the largest U.S. military base overseas. Visiting Humphreys for the first time as a retiree was a moving experience — seeing how the U.S.–ROK alliance continues to evolve, and remembering how much Korea has shaped our lives.

Island Adventures: Heuksando

Midway through the trip, we headed south for an island adventure.

We took the train to Mokpo, then boarded a ferry to Heuksando Island in the South China Sea. The ferry ride itself was beautiful — passing rugged coastline and fishing villages.

On Heuksando, we explored dramatic cliffs, coastal trails, and charming island streets. The seafood was as fresh as it gets, and the island’s remote feel made it a highlight of the trip.

Family Road Trip: Pocheon Sanjeong Lake

To round out the trip, we joined Jennifer’s parents, sister, and brother-in-law for a family road trip north to Pocheon Sanjeong Lake.

Nestled among forested hills, the lake offered peaceful scenery and crisp spring air — a perfect place to relax and reflect after our busy island travels.

Reflections

Every trip to Korea brings new memories — and this one felt especially meaningful.

Returning as a retiree, with the freedom to explore both old haunts and new places, gave us a fresh perspective on this country that’s been so central to our story.

We can’t wait to return again — and we’ll definitely fly Air Premia next time, too!

Closing

If you’re considering a spring trip to Korea, don’t hesitate — it’s a season of vibrant markets, crisp mountain air, blooming temples, and family warmth.

And if you’re a military retiree or former expat, going back to Korea can be a truly special journey — part homecoming, part adventure, always memorable.